Dispatch No. 2 – Something New, Something Rare, Something that Shouldn’t Be There

Enchanted Rock

Fresh off our wildflower extravaganza in Bandera County, Karen and I rested a day then struck off again for Llano County and Enchanted Rock State Natural Area.  Sensing that pleasant days afield would be becoming scarce soon, there was urgency to experience one more great day in this fantastic wildflower year. Our plan: hike the Loop Trail in search of wildflowers. We found something new, something rare, and something that shouldn’t even be there.

Granite Dome at Enchanted Rock SNA

We decided to hike the trail counter-clockwise to see more bird activity along Sandy Creek in the morning. We had the trail well begun when we ran into a group of 80 or so middle school students from San Antonio. A tricky water crossing was just in front of us so we stepped off the trail to let the students make the crossing first. A backpacker had slipped on the rocks in the crossing and cut his hand badly. The school chaperones were tending to him as the students filed by him and then us. One student gave us the quote of the day as he went by us. He said, “Nature is scary.”

We made the crossing without incident and reached the beginning of the climb up Turkey Pass. The morning clouds had vanished and the sun blazed down on us. Humidity wrapped us in its sweaty embrace.

…And you at home with watery eyes…think of how it is to die…beneath the cruel uncloudy skies…on the Llano Estacado…

Okay, it warmed up some and we knew that Turkey Pass offered little shade. What we didn’t know was that two surprises and a near collapse awaited in the pass.

In the middle of the steepest section, Karen sat down hard on a boulder, looking a little roasted and uninterested in scouring a field guide for a difficult identification of a small yellow flower I was presenting. A challenge had befallen us.  After many thoughtful and encouraging words from me, I knew my sentiments were having an effect when she responded with a cold, hard stare.  I wandered off a ways to give her some alone time…I mean look for wildflowers.

We were on the trail again and in no time, I heard Karen give a yelp and say, “Kelly look at this!” She was standing in a small garden of Mexican Mallow flowers. Until this discovery, we only knew of the location in Bandera County described in the last dispatch. But many more blooms were visible in our new discovery.  We lingered a moment.

Also, on this portion of the trail we discovered a new flower for us – the Basin Bellflower.  Enquist calls it “truly rare.” Eroded slopes of granite domes are its preferred haunt, and it is found only on the unquarried granite domes in Burnet, Mason, and Llano counties. A delicate, rare little blue bell that Enquist calls “relatively unknown, unstudied, and unappreciated.” We piled on some appreciation before we moved on.

On the backside of Turkey Pass in the shadowed, creekside humidity it was my turn to overheat. Karen had solved her issue by soaking a bandana in water and wrapping it around her neck. It was difficult for me to understand why that particular bandana could not be cut in half and shared as she skipped down the trail in front me singing a “Cool as a Cucumber” ditty I had not heard from her before.

Many more wildflower species were identified and our species list swelled past 59 species – our old record from 2000. We began to wonder if a new day’s record of 88 was possible. We knew a mystery flower may be awaiting us up ahead as well.

For many years now, when the spring had been wet and ephemeral streams crisscrossed the hill country, we would find a fragrant yellow flower with its feet firmly set in a shallow pool where some soil had gathered on the granite.  We do not see it every year, and we had not been able to identify it at all.  None of our hill country flower guides showed such a flower.

As we neared the area of this mystery flower area, Karen began to smell its sweet scent and once again we were before the mystery.  We made our usual notes of its size and flower type, then filled with hope we started for home.  This time would be different.

Purely by accident, we identified the flower.  I was looking in an old and rarely used Peterson guide and stumbled upon – the Horned Bladderwort. Much vigorous celebration ensued over this identification, but only in the coolest possible way. The details follow (of the flower, not the celebration).

Horned Bladderwort

The Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center says the Horned Bladderwort is a carnivorous plant that is able “to suck very small organisms in through the bladders and digest them.” Growing conditions require wet and sandy soil – check. Apparently, this species can be terrestrial as well as aquatic – check, it would not likely be submerged for much longer. The Center says its native distribution is “Ontario to Nova Scotia; south to Pennsylvania; west to Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota. Also North Carolina south to Florida, and in e. Texas” – hmmmm. Llano County is not east Texas, but we stand by the identification in our very unofficial capacity as flower identifiers. Link to Wildflower Center information: https://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=UTCO

Our final count was 81 species of wildflowers, crushing the old 2000 record for Enchanted Rock.  We missed some identifications, and I feel that a 90 species day awaits a hardier explorer.

Nature

Emma Marris says, in her TedX talk, “Nature is not [those areas] untouched by humanity. Nature is anywhere life thrives, anywhere there are multiple species together, anywhere it’s green and blue and thriving and filled with life and growing.”

She recounts a story of a man who stopped mowing his backyard for two years. A plant survey of his yard identified 375 species, including two endangered plants. I think this is incredibly fantastic.

Negotiations with Karen are still ongoing.

Dispatch No. 1

On Monday, May 13th, Karen and I made a quick trip to Inks Lake State Park to hike and look for wildflowers.  Park employees said the lake was 3 feet higher than normal (https://www.lcra.org/water/dams-and-lakes/Pages/default.aspx) and some trails were closed, others inundated.  Well, that doesn’t stop serious Wildflowerers…ers…

Looking for wildflowers” quickly turned into “we’re going to set a new park record!” (for us). But alas, we stalled at 50 species identified, six short of our record set in 2013.

The area of the park that burned in the 2018 fire is fantastic with wildflowers right now.  A trip in the next week or so would be well rewarded. See the attached photo for a glimpse.  The most prominent flower is the Golden Wave or Coreopsis.  Many other species are well represented too.

Hardest Flower to Find: Pearl Milkweed Vine – often overlooked by the casual passerby. (www.greatstems.com/2013/05/a-pearl-of-a-vine.html)

Most Numerous Flower: Golden Wave (Coreopsis) – I can’t recall a year that was this spectacular.

Birds: 15 species – Black-throated Sparrows were prominent and singing

Still riding the wave of exuberance, we left the house early the next morning to make the three-hour drive to Hill Country State Natural Area to …wait for it…SET A NEW PARK RECORD!  That however would require more than 85 species. We arrived and 15 feet inside the park entrance we pulled the car over to the side of the gravel road and began identifying wildflowers.  We had 44 species before we completed the mile drive to the headquarters.

We received our day pass and headed to a well-known flower spot, made a slow drive down the park road to the north, then on to our secret location that very likely no one else knows about.  The only location where we have seen the Mexican Mallow (Hermannia texana) (http://w3.biosci.utexas.edu/prc/DF/pages/HETE9.html).  We found this flower by accident one year and now have regularly returned to the same location within the park to see it each spring in May.

Nearing the end of the day we had identified 75 species, a goodly amount but disappointingly short of a new record.  But we knew of another area on the south side of the park to check. And we heard reports of a special find along this route if you looked carefully and were lucky. Quickly, we picked up a prickly pear and white prickly poppy – 77 species. Some time passed before we spotted the 6-foot tall False Dragonhead in the creek, but progress was slow and the route was coming to an end.

But we are no casual passersby when it comes to seeing wildflowers. Then there it was, in the shadows under the overhanging branches of a live oak tree, the Scarlet Leatherflower. That got us to 79 species, respectable but no record. Unfortunately, we had seen 4-5 species we were unable to identify with the field guides at hand.  How did we make such a rookie mistake to bring only two field guides instead of the seven or so we have at home? We could possibly have 83-84 species instead.

Stormy looking clouds began to build, thunder rumbled about, and a sprinkle or two fell on our heads.  Yes! We would hike the Heritage Trail to look for some upland species we just might have missed so far.

Two-leaved Senna was easily found shortly after we started the hike. Then a new flower for both of us, the Cardinal Feather.  A special treat occurred when we found another location for the Mexican Mallow along the trail. By trail’s end we found three more species for a total of 84 species, one shy of tying the record. So disappointing, but those unidentified species still loomed tauntingly in photos, waiting, waiting…

We raced home to our field guides, spooked the cats as we burst into the house, and quickly identified two species we missed in the field for a NEW RECORD! (FOR US) – woo hoo! (the Nerdometer was pegged)

Best Flower: Mexican Mallow, of course

Best New Flower: Scarlet Leatherflower

Best Bird Sighting: Male Vermillion Flycatcher performing its fluttering display flight.

Birds: 25 species

*Common names of wildflowers mostly follow Wildflowers of the Texas Hill Country by Marshall Enquist

The wildflowers on Highway 29 between Lake Buchanan and Llano, Texas and on Highway 16 from Llano to Fredericksburg, Texas are spectacular – the best we can remember.

Go to the Hill Country!